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Jewelry tends to have a pace slower than fashion, yet nevertheless it is constantly changing, growing, and evolving. Here at Vogue we pride ourselves on maintaining our fingers on the pulse while continuously pushing forward to what’s next. We buzz with excitement when we find a new jewelry designer or brand that brings novelty to the discipline, pushes the envelope, and embraces history in its own way.
Our list below includes jewelry designers that look to antiquity—Darius through the specific lens of her Persian ancestry and Dyne through a modern mode for hieroglyphics. Some designers like Arielle Ratner and Briony Raymond spent years working for other houses until they broke off on their own, compelled by their own inspiration and confidence in their skills. Others, such as Jade Ruzzo, were drawn to the medium after a wholly different start in their careers. The below list represents a group of jewelry designers who aren’t simply one thing and bring a freshness to the jewelry world that inspires the imagination and the hope of acquisition.
London-based jewelry brand By Pariah is inspired by untouched raw materials. Pieces with fine stones and lesser-seen materials are sophisticated and naturally elevated.
Octavia Elizabeth Zamagias specializes in jewelry-box classics with a modern and sustainable twist. After years of training as a bench jeweler, the designer started her own line of pieces that can be added to an everyday look—and a few pieces for that next-level sparkle too.
A dual talent, Raymond designs her own beautiful and classically informed pieces and sources fabulous antique jewelry. A favorite of celebrities such as Rihanna and editors alike, Raymond has staying power we’re happy to support.
Designer David Farrugia created the line of heavy metals—often encrusted with diamonds and precious gemstones—to be worn by anyone. It doesn’t sound like a novel concept, except in the luxury marketplace, it is. The designs are worn just as well layered as solo.
Ruzzo’s less-is-more jewelry is pared back in the sort of way that you can wear it to everything every day. The media vet pivoted mid career to styling and jewelry design and has channeled a laissez-faire attitude to her design.
Mia Moross curates a blend of reimagined jewelry using old stones and stocks impeccable vintage pieces, mainly rings and engagement rings. Pieces strike the perfect balance of delicate and refined.
Inspired by her Persian roots, Darya Khonsary designs pieces in Fairmined gold with ethically sourced stones. The jewelry all has inherent meaning through the symbols used and is handcrafted in Los Angeles.
Melinda Zeman’s whimsical jewelry incorporates gold coils, pearls, enamel, and diamonds to create something for everyone. The Ghanaian Chinese designer infuses her fine jewelry with color and fun.
A true master of hieroglyphics, Sarah Ysabel Narici creates unique designs that are meaningful and specific. Her ability to create deeply personal pieces that span centuries is no easy feat.
After years of working for others and a stint of consulting for various brands, Ratner used the pandemic to launch her own pieces. The uniquely set, showstopping engagement rings caught our attention; the beautifully crafted necklaces and earrings have held our interest.
Marcel infuses a worldwide vision into her inlay and gem-set yellow-gold pieces. While visually appealing, the pieces also are imbued with meaning and strive to evoke a sense of calm.