When most artists create a study—a sketch or a mock-up in preparing for a finished piece—it tends to be a more compact-scale edition of the final perform. Sculptor and jewellery designer Ana Khouri has frequently taken the opposite method, very first making a significant-scale sculpture and then designing a miniature edition, in supplies these as gold and diamonds, as jewelry. Khouri’s Mirian bracelet, for case in point, options chunky white diamonds that lie in a circle across the wearer’s wrist, but the form of it initially came in the sort of a curvy iron sculpture measuring about 12 x 20 inches.
Considering the fact that launching her namesake jewelry line in 2013, Khouri, 41, has become known for her great jewelry, and significantly for her ear cuffs. In thick important metals or clusters of sparkly gemstones, her gravity-defying cuffs spiral around the outer ear. Zoë Kravitz, Kaia Gerber and Mary-Kate and
have all worn her layouts in 2019, the Olsens also began carrying them at their The Row outlets.
Now Khouri has shifted her focus to the even additional luxe large jewellery category, developing mainly 1-of-a-variety items, together with some from unheard of resources these kinds of as rosewood and rose quartz. And for the to start with time, she’s getting ready to promote her sculptures together with her jewelry, at the European Fantastic Artwork Basis honest (Tefaf) in New York Metropolis in May perhaps. Her business product has shifted these pieces can only be bought either right from Khouri at her by-appointment space in New York Town or at exhibitions like Tefaf. In recent several years, she’s also collaborated with the auction properties Sotheby’s and Phillips on demonstrates.
Alex Logsdail, the CEO of Lisson Gallery who’s also on the selection committee for Tefaf, has been providing her guidance on how to place herself in the art entire world. He and his spouse, Skylar Pittman, are buddies and clientele of Khouri’s. “The jewelry’s extremely sculptural,” he says. “So it’s a purely natural evolution that she’d start off attaining recognition for the sculpture.”
Khouri’s sculptures are produced from materials such as iron, sand, paint, pearl, gold leaf and aluminum. She’s never ever marketed them or labored with a gallery ahead of. “It was not the right time, there was so considerably going on on the jewelry side,” she suggests. For a short term exhibition, she at the time loaned the Olsens some of her sculptures to show at The Row in Los Angeles, along with functions by Isamu Noguchi and John Chamberlain, but they still weren’t offered for acquire.
When Khouri has hardly ever been interested in mass creation, at a person place her jewelry was accessible in nine stores about the entire world, like Barneys just before it shuttered. “We did not want to do 30 of a necklace or 40 of a ring,” she claims. “I try to remember again when we started out at Barneys and Net-a-Porter, [we told them,] ‘We do not generate all the quantities you will need. We deliver two times a yr, and we do not consign.’ ” This design is unusual in wonderful jewellery, where by makes usually develop a sure quantity of collections a 12 months, and the retailer pays a percentage of the proceeds only when the items offer. Now the only keep where her version items can be ordered is The Row. Khouri’s editions are offered in finite teams ranging from two to 15, and start out at $7,100. Meanwhile, her large jewellery perform can go for considerably more a gold, diamond and crystal necklace sold at auction for $8 million.
“What’s specific about her items is that they get on a new lifestyle on whomever is putting on them,” states stylist Karla Welch, whose clients involve Justin and Hailey Bieber and Olivia Wilde. “Ana is an artist. When I use the ring I personal, I truly feel a deep connection to the products and her respect for the planet.”
The approximately 30 jewelry parts that will be readily available at Tefaf incorporate a thick gold cuff that looks like a little something Cleopatra would have worn a show-halting necklace with diamonds dripping additional diamonds from a thick double chain and a hand-carved rose-quartz and crystal collar with a 5.54 carat pink diamond at its centre. Khouri has also been experimenting, for example, with rosewood, a now-guarded tree species, generating items from a vintage upper body of drawers that was in her household. “In the end, what is luxury?” she claims. “Why are these matters not in superior jewelry? There is not a motive.”
She utilizes only Fairmined gold, a certification from the Colombia-based mostly Alliance for Responsible Mining that signifies traceability and that the metallic is from tiny-scale mining corporations. She is effective on her sculptures at a studio in Brooklyn, and has one more workspace in Manhattan and one particular in Paris, where the high jewelry artisans she operates with are positioned.
Khouri was born in São Paulo and invested her early childhood in Londrina, a 20-minute drive from the family’s eucalyptus farm in southern Brazil. An outdoorsy kid, she remembers feeding horses by hand and being in trees. “What it taught me was to belief in the entire world and in nature,” Khouri claims. When she turned 10, her relatives begun splitting time between Brazil and the U.S. for her father’s engineering function (her mother is a pianist). She attended college in Coral Gables, Florida, ahead of relocating again to Brazil at age 15.
At university in São Paulo, Khouri researched sculpture and graduated with a degree in wonderful arts. When at college, she staged a present in which 4 nude designs walked around wearing massive sculptures of hers molded to their bodies, masking the leading of their breasts to their thighs.
An attendee who turned Khouri’s first consumer sought her out just after the occasion and asked if she would make the performs on a more compact scale so that the customer could wear them as jewellery. The ask for wasn’t quick Khouri points out that she had to imagine of performance in a way she’d hardly ever experienced to as a sculptor. But she learned how to function with gold, and at a more compact scale. “I fell in like with it,” she says of building jewellery. “It was almost like bringing my [sculpture] perform into [a woman’s] entire body and having it walk all over with her as she moves.”
Khouri accomplished courses at Central Saint Martins in London and at the Gemological Institute of The us, the Style Institute of Technological innovation and Parsons Faculty of Layout in New York. In 2012, the yr right before she released her possess brand name, she moved back to New York.
“New York created me harsh in a very good way,” she suggests. “I was on your own in a country, and for my organization to do the job, I wanted to be all set for no matter what it was, and have confidence in a little bit less that it would happen.”
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